Freedom Camping in Taranaki

3 Nights Freedom Camping in Taranaki – Waverley Beach

If you’re looking for freedom camping in Taranaki, north of Wanganui on the West Coast of New Zealand, then you can’t overlook Waverley Beach. About an hour from Wanganui is the small town of Waverley and on the coast is Waverley beach. If you’re looking for the ideal location for freedom camping then this is it!

After grabbing a coffee at the Main Street Cafe or the Four Square if the cafe is closed, turn left and head out to Waverley beach.

There are a number of options for staying at Waverley Beach. There is a paid campground and there are some beautiful locations with ocean views for freedom camping in Taranaki.

Waverley Beach Campground

Waverley campground is a popular location for those who wish to stay in a paid location. The facility has 28 unmarked powered sites. There’s a hot shower, toilet, basic kitchen facilities, a playground and free use of a BBQ for campers.

As of 2024 the fees for Waverley Campground are:

Powered Site – $21.00 per powered point/powered site/per night

Non-Powered Site – $17.00 per site/per night

Freedom Camping in Taranaki at Waverley Beach

If you don’t need to use the paid campground and intend freedom camping, then you can choose from some amazing cliff top locations with beautiful ocean views.

Cell phone coverage on Spark is adequate. Enough signal to make phone calls, text message, and use the internet. Internet is adequate for streaming video content.

Signs indicate that three vehicles per night are allowed and you can stay for three nights in a calendar month. There are signs indicating where dogs are allowed, with dogs permitted on Long Beach but not on Cave Beach.

A short walk from the freedom camp parking there is a toilet block. It’s serviced daily, flushing toilets and cold showers are available.

Waverley Beach is a beautiful black sand beach. A short walk – 50 to 200 metres from your freedom camping site at the end of the gravel road is beach access. There are amazing cliff and rock formations as well as deep caves where the crashing waves are slowly eroding the cliffs. It can be windy freedom camping at the cliff top location, but it’s certainly worth staying here on a beautiful sunny day. You’ll be treated to amazing West Coast sunsets.

There is a dump station in Waverley – Chester Street as you drive into Waverley from Wanganui.

Dump Station in Waverley

For more information about freedom camping at Waverley Beach or freedom camping in the Taranaki region check out the South Taranaki District Council website.

Read our blog about Tongaporotu – the 3 Sisters and elephant rock, if you’re looking for more locations for freedom camping in Taranaki.

EPEVER solar charge controller

Why Do You Need a Solar Charge Controller?

EPEVER solar charge controller

A Solar Charge Controller is a regulator for your batteries used to prevent overcharging and discharging. Solar panels are connected to the solar charge controller, as are the batteries. The Charge controller sits in the middle – it’s the link between batteries and solar panels.

You need a solar charge controller to ensure your batteries aren’t overcharged. The voltage on your solar panels can range from 16 to 32 volts or more. For example, a “12 volt solar panel” will actually produce around 18 volts, and without a load, closer to 21 volts. A “24 volt panel” will be producing around 32 volts, and without a load, close to 45 volts.

Your solar charge controller takes care of the higher voltage and ensures that your batteries are receiving the correct voltage. A 12 volt battery is fully charged at 12.6 volts. But to actually charge that battery, the input voltage needs to be over 14 volts usually, and the exact number will depend on the type of battery you have. Some people have their electrics set up as a 24 volt system. If they only had a “12 volt solar panel” – where the maximum voltage would be around 17 volts, it’s not going to have enough voltage to get the batteries charging.

A solar charge controller also prevents power from leaking back, from the battery to the solar panels at night time. Depending on the type of solar charge controller you have, it may have many other useful features, such as allowing you to stop the battery from being over discharged.

With batteries such as AGM or GEL, the amount of power they need from the solar panels changes. If they’re low on charge, they’ll absorb a lot more power. As they get closer to fully charged, they need to soak up less power – slow down the rate of charge, and this again is where the solar charge controller comes in.

PWM vs MPPT Solar Charge Controller

There are two different types of solar charge controller you can install. PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation and MPPT is short for Maximum Power Point Tracking.

PWM controllers are an older technology and not as efficient as the newer technology MPPT solar charge controller. A PWM solar charge controller, being an older technology are generally cheaper than an MPPT solar charge controller.

A PWM solar charge controller probably still has it’s place in the scheme of things. If you’re only using it in a really small power system, perhaps an 80 watt solar panel to keep keep a battery for some shed lights used occasionally charged up.

However, MPPT controllers are so cheap these days that for most situations I’d recommend using an MPPT controller. At the time of writing, a 30 amp EPEVER Tracer MPPT Solar charge controller comes in at around $209 from Sunny Tech Solar. That would allow you to have up to a 390W solar panel at 12 volts, or 780 watts of solar at 24 volts.  

My Solar Charge Controllers

I’ve got four solar charge controllers. An EPEVER 30 amp charge controller in the van. The motorhome, because there are three different electrical systems has 3 charge controllers. A 30 amp Fangpusun PWM charge controller, a 10 amp EPEVER MPPT controller and a 40 amp EPEVER MPPT controller.

I like the Fangpusun PWM charge controller, it’s easy to use and has served me well. I bought it back when MPPT technology was a little out of my budget.

See more about my electrical set up here.

The EPEVER Solar Charge Controller

I’ve used EPEVER solar charge controllers for a number of years now without any problems. They’re easy to use, the terminals are easy to connect your wires to, and there are a couple of good accessories – the MT50 and EPEVER Solar Station Monitor.

The MT50 is connected to your charge controller and allows you more control of functions, settings and display. It gives more functionality than what you can access from the basic charge controller unit. They’re available at most RV or Motorhome stores such as RV Supercentre. People that have them say they’re worth having, but I don’t have one. I may get one, or two, in the future, but at the moment I’m using the EPEVER Solar Station Monitor.

The EPEVER Solar Station Monitor

Downloading and Installing the EPEVER Solar Station Monitor

The EPEVER Solar Station Monitor is software that you can download from EPEVER and install on your computer. I’ve got it running on an old Windows 7 laptop as well as a newer laptop. It works successfully on both.

All the files you need should come zipped in your download. Unzip the folder and install. It pays to read the instructions! The RS485 cable plugs into the communications port on the charge controller and into the USB port of your computer. I spent a little while searching on the internet for drivers for the RS485 cable, when they were actually included in the download.

You’ll need to purchase the RS485 cable. I bought my cable from Sunny Tech Solar.

The EPEVER Solar Station Monitor Interface

It’s nothing flash, seems like it was coded in the 1990’s (it probably was), probably in C# with Windows Forms, but does what it says on the tin.

You’ll need to set up your ‘solar station’ with the add station button top left. At first it can seem a bit confusing or complicated, but most people will be able to figure it out or at least know someone who can help.

I decided to use the Solar Station Monitor because I had bought ‘drop in’ Lithium batteries, that weren’t really ‘drop in’ batteries. They needed the charge settings to be changed otherwise I was getting high voltage spikes.

The Solar Station Monitor has given me the ability to input the exact settings I want. By clicking on Parameters (P) I can access the following panel which gives you the option to select your desired settings.

You can monitor in real time your load – the blue line, the input from your solar panels – the red line, and the charge going into your batteries, the green line.

The following screenshots relate to the Lithium batteries in my motorhome. Two 100 amp hour Lithium Valley batteries in series giving 100 amp hours at 24V. The Solar panels are two 370 watt panels.

The image below shows the load (blue line). That includes the Samsung 255L fridge, but in it’s off cycle, the Laptop being used plugged in and charging – just over 2 amps of draw (fridge and laptop), mobile phone plugged in charging – jumps up to just over 3 amps, the Samsung 255L fridge kicks into it’s cooling cycle, the large brief jump is the water pump being used momentarily.

The image below – Load is only the Samsung 255L fridge. The fridge cycles on and off as needed, and this is when it is in an off cycle.

Image below – fridge is cooling

Image below – fridge cycles – off, on, off, on. The one blue spike is the water pump.

Image below – fridge cycle on – every so often, perhaps twice a day it seems to do a cycle where it draws a lot higher amps.

Overall I find the EPEVER solar charge controllers to be great. And the Solar Station software gives me the option to see what’s going on if I need or want to, as well as tweak the settings for the charging inputs etc.

In the near future I plan to take some screenshots of the usage in my small van. Using the same batteries set up in parallel as 200 amp hours at 12 volts, running a 40 litre Waeco fridge, 1100 watt Nomad Pure Sign Wave Inverter with laptop, phones, and lights, a much smaller system, but also only one 270 watt solar panel.

In the meantime, be sure to check out Lake Aniwhenua – one of my favourite freedom camping spots!

Arapuni Landing freedom camping spots

Top Freedom Camping Spots: Arapuni Landing

Arapuni Landing freedom camping spots

Arapuni Landing, approximately 20 minutes drive from Putaruru, or 40 minutes from Cambridge is one of the districts beautiful freedom camping spots. Nestled on the shores of the Waikato River, the hydro lake is a popular spot for anglers and water lovers. Both brown trout and rainbow trout can be caught, with Fish and Game releasing several thousand fish into the lake annually.

As far as freedom camping spots go, Arapuni Landing makes for a safe, enjoyable stay. Of note is the fact it’s not isolated. There are a number of houses scattered within a few hundred metres of the freedom camping spots.

Arapuni Landing is free to stay at. In the summer months the area gets busy so if you plan to freedom camp then it pays to be early. If you’re staying during the off- season, the winter months it’ll be quiet with very few other campers. Get the diesel heater going and enjoy the stay. Don’t have a diesel heater? Check out my thoughts on why a Chinese Diesel Heater is a must have item.

There’s a boat ramp with access to the lake and it’s popular with watercraft.

There’s a maximum of 15 vehicles allowed freedom camping at any one time. The camp is only for certified self contained vehicles, and you’re allowed 2 consecutive nights stay maximum. But don’t let that put you off. Once you’ve stayed two nights, Bulmer’s Landing is a short drive up the road – another of the areas awesome freedom camping spots.

There’s a flushing toilet available. See the above photo. It’s the small buildings at the left of the photo, on the road into the camp at the left.

Arapuni Landing is also dog friendly.

freedom camping spots Arapuni Landing

Arapuni Landing has good coverage for WIFI and Cell Phone reception on Spark and Skinny. You’ll be able to get some work done on the lakefront or stream your favourite YouTube channel.

Arapuni Landing is part of the Waipa District Council. Check out their website for more information on freedom camping spots in the area.

Freedom Camping Spots: Jones’ Landing

Jones’ Landing is opposite Bulmer’s Landing – on the other side of the river. I’ve not been there and checked it out yet. However, from what I could see on the other side of the river, from Bulmer’s Landing it looks like a nice place to check out. It’s on my list of “to dos'” According to Camper Mate, it’s closed to vehicles between 8.30pm and 6am and there’s no cell phone coverage there. Jones’ Landing is named after Gordon Jones’ father who had a boat shed there.

Certified Self Contained vehicles are able to stay two nights for free and then a camping permit is needed for a longer stay. These can be purchased from the South Waikato District Council offices or the district’s Information Centres.

Arapuni Hydro dam
Arapuni Hydro Dam

Freedom Camping Spots: Bulmer’s Landing

Bulmer’s Landing is a nice freedom camping spot, opposite Jones’ Landing. Bulmer’s Landing is a short drive from Arapuni Landing. There’s a maximum of 10 Certified Self Contained vehicles allowed per night, for another 2 consecutive nights.

Although I didn’t check out the toilet block, it’s a much more substantial sized building than the toilets at Arapuni Landing.

For the water sport lovers – there’s a boat ramp at Bulmer’s Landing. Again, in the summer it pays to get in early if you want lake front views from your motorhome.

Arapuni Hydro Dam
Arapuni Hydro dam near some great freedom camping spots
Arapuni Hydro Dam

The small village of Arapuni is about a ten minute drive from Arapuni Landing. Arapuni power station and dam were built between 1924 and 1929. The dam is 64 metres high from its foundations to the roadway and raised the water 42.7 m above its old level.

If you’re in the Arapuni area, be sure to check out the Arapuni Suspension Bridge. It’s a popular tourist attraction. Again, another one of those items on my ‘to do’ list for next time I’m though. I was in a bit of a rush this trip on my way to Lake Aniwhenua. Lake Aniwhenua being one of my favourite places to stay, probably due to the free hot showers when van camping…. check out our thoughts on Lake Aniwhenua here.

Lake Arapuni as seen from Arapuni Landing
Lake Aniwhenua, arguably one of the best freedom camping spots in the district

Lake Aniwhenua: One of the Best Freedom Camping Spots?

Lake Aniwhenua, arguably one of the best freedom camping spots in the district

Nestled about an hours drive to the south east of Rotorua, in the Bay of Plenty is Lake Aniwhenua. Although classed as ‘free’ there is a donation box, but well worth a donation to stay at arguably one of the best freedom camping spots in the area.

The Best Freedom Camping Spot Because….

I’ve stayed a couple of times, and the free hot showers are a contributing factor to making this one of the best freedom camping locations. That, combined with the beautiful location, scenery, and such a nice large grassed area with plenty of parking.

As well as the hot showers there’s also flushing toilets. The showers are heated by the sun – solar powered, so as long as there’s been sun they seem to be adequate for a good wash. If you’re doing the van life thing, without a shower on board, the hot showers are welcome.

Cover from the elements and the toilet and shower block

Cell phone coverage is adequate on Spark and Skinny. A couple of bars in most parts of the campground – enough to get some work done on WIFI or watch YouTube once you’re done kayaking or sailing on the lake.

Part of the Rangitaiki River, Lake Aniwhenua is relatively shallow, but provides some great fishing opportunities. On a good day you should be able to catch both brown and rainbow trout.

There’s plenty of parking for vehicles of all sizes, no matter if you’re a small van, bus, motorhome or tent. You can park right alongside the lakefront, or if the ground is soggy there’s parking up the top if you don’t want to risk getting stuck. Camping is allowed in both Certified Self Contained (CSC) vehicles and non-CSC vehicles including tents.

You’re allowed to stay for a maximum of 7 nights in any 4 week period. You can read more about freedom camping in the Whakatane district here. Get along and enjoy one of the best freedom camping locations in the Bay of Plenty!

Lake Aniwhenua is awesome in the summer time, but beautiful in the change of seasons as the trees colour up. It’s idyllic in the winter, but you might want to have some good heating. Check out our article about installing a Chinese Diesel heater – whether they’re really worth it or not…

If you’re off to your next destination you might like to consider Arapuni Landing, Jones’ Landing, or Bulmer’s Landing. Another couple of great freedom camping locations, about a 2 hour drive to the west, and located about a half hour south of Cambridge.

Chinese Diesel Heater

Installing a Chinese Diesel Heater

Chinese Diesel Heater
Diesel Heaters, aka Space Heaters or Parking Heaters

Installing a Chinese diesel heater in your motorhome, van, or RV is a great way to keep warm in the winter. They’re efficient, provide a warm, dry heat, and are relatively easy to install yourself. I’ve got two diesel heaters installed. In this article I’ve put together my thoughts on the Chinese diesel heater.

Based off the Eberspächer and similar heaters originally, the Chinese ‘copy’ of this parking heater has become extremely popular. They cost a fraction of the price. People who own them can often be heard stating that they could buy a Chinese diesel heater and six spares for the cost of one Eberspächer heater. I’m not sure anyone has ever needed to though as the Chinese copy seems to be reliable if installed and operated correctly.

Cost of Chinese Diesel Heaters

The cost of these heaters has dropped dramatically over the last few years, and spare parts for them have increased in availability. My first Chinese diesel heater cost $650 second hand 5 years ago, and I’ve recently bought another one for $250 from Trade Me. They can be purchased direct from overseas for a similar, if not cheaper price.

My Diesel Heaters I’ve Installed

I’ve found the Chinese diesel heaters to be generally reliable and good. I have one in my van, one in my motorhome, and I’ve just purchased a second one so as to have two in the motorhome. I’ve done this as a back up, they’re cheap enough and while reliability seems good, you just don’t want it to break down on a cold night and have no heating. So I figured since they’re so cheap I’d throw a second one in.

The heaters I have are 5KW. The van, being small heats up in ten minutes. The motorhome at 9 metres is the perfect size for the 5KW heater, and often I only run it on it’s lowest setting. It’ll warm the entire motorhome up easily. Although I’ve never timed it, my estimate is that from 8 degrees inside the motorhome, it will be up to 20 degrees in 15 minutes. On a cold day outside it’ll keep you plenty warm enough.

Chinese Diesel Heater
Chinese Diesel Heater

How Many Amps Do Chinese Diesel Heaters Draw?

Chinese diesel heaters need power as well as diesel to run. They use the most power on start up while the glow plug does its thing. It’ll draw about 8 to 10 amps while it starts up – around 5 minutes or so. Once running, depending on your heating needs it’ll use roughly one amp an hour. Your existing power supply should be adequate to run the diesel heater. Running my diesel heater has very little impact on my power supply. It’s running off a couple of AGM batteries and 300W of solar. See more about my electrical set up here.

How Much Diesel Does a Chinese Diesel Heater Use?

Diesel use is minimal. The actual amount you use will depend on the heat setting. On a low setting you’re probably looking at around 0.2 of a litre per hour, and if you turn it up to a high setting you’ll be using closer to half a litre of diesel per hour. Realistically, diesel usage is not an issue – I find that I run my heater on it’s lowest or second lowest setting. So allowing 0.2 liters of diesel per hour I’m getting 5 hours of heating for a litre of diesel. Although diesel prices have gone up somewhat, it’s still pretty reasonable considering I wouldn’t have the heater going all day. Even on the lowest setting in the day time, it’ll get too warm inside with it constantly on.

Install a Carbon Monoxide Alarm

Diesel heaters exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which can kill quickly and silently. Although the exhaust exits outside the vehicle, I’d never install or use a diesel heater in a location without a good carbon monoxide alarm. I’ve got two in my motorhome. It’s just not worth the risk.

Can You Install a Chinese Diesel Heater Yourself?

The short answer is yes. The longer answer is that it depends how handy you are at wielding a few tools. You’ll need to cut a hole in the floor of your vehicle, and wire up the electrics to the battery.

Depending on your vehicles floor you may need to cut or drill through wood or metal. My motorhome has a wooden floor and the van has a typical metal van floor.

You’ll need to carefully plan and consider where you’ll install the heater. It needs to sit upright. On the bottom of the heater is an air intake which the heater uses to bring in air from outside for the combustion process. Next to this is the exhaust outlet, and this again must be vented to the outside of your vehicle. The exhaust gets very hot! As does the outer casing of the heater. This really means you need to use common sense when installing. You’re dealing with something that if installed incorrectly, is dangerous. With that said, I’d say give it a go yourself. Plenty of people have installed them, there’s even Facebook groups dedicated to Chinese diesel heaters.

Diesel Heater Components

What’s in the box? All this apart from the kitten

The diesel heater arrives neatly packed in a box with all the components you need. At first you’ll probably wonder if you’ll ever work out how to put it all together. For my first install, I had a pretty good idea of how it went together, but I decided to ask someone to confirm a couple of questions I had.

It’s a little bit like a jigsaw. Most components will only go in one place. For example in the picture below I’ve attached the air intake pipe (black) and put the round filter on the end. And the silver pipe is the exhaust with the muffler still in the bag. The silver pipe and black pipe are slightly different sizes. Therefore you can’t put them on the wrong part of the heater – they won’t fit – like a jigsaw. All this minus the clamps that are provided to tighten and hold it all firmly together.

Heater showing air intake pip and exhaust pipe connected

The photo below shows the fuel pump and filter with the fuel line provided. If you haven’t yet bought your diesel heater, I’d recommend getting one that has this coloured fuel line. It’s what I’ve always got, and I’ve read in a number of places that it’s better than using the green fuel line that some of the Chinese diesel heaters come with.

Chinese diesel heater fuel pump
Fuel line, fuel filter, and fuel pump

The photo below shows the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Fuel flows from the tank, to the fuel filter, and then to the fuel pump. The fuel filter ideally should be facing the other way as any sediment in the fuel can then catch on the outside of the little mesh basket inside the filter as opposed to filling up the small mesh basket. There’s no arrow on the fuel filter, whereas the fuel pump has an arrow on it that shows the direction of fuel flow / install.

Fuel filter (installed around the wrong way!) and fuel pump

You can install your heater using the 10 litre plastic fuel tank supplied, or you can T off into the vehicles fuel supply if your vehicle is diesel powered. The photo below shows the supplied pipe to connect to a vehicles fuel tank. The connections along the fuel line are made using the supplied rubber hose which you cut to small sections, push the white pipe into, and clamp with the supplied fittings.

Install an Additional Power On/Off Switch

I recommend adding another power switch. When you connect the heater to your battery, with most of these heaters the LCD screen will stay on. I’d rather have control of what items are on in my van, RV, or motorhome, especially when it comes to a device that can give off carbon monoxide fumes and creates heat. Although generally very reliable and good heaters, I’ve walked into my motorhome and found the heater ON, albeit only the fan blowing cold air, but some fault has caused it to switch itself on. I’ve read of similar things on Chinese diesel heater Facebook groups.

Some people will suggest that you don’t add another power switch. Their reasoning is that someone may accidentally turn the heater off using this switch. Indeed, it’s important that the heater is not switched off by an external switch. The heater must be switched off using the off button on the controller provided. The heater then goes through it’s own cool down cycle. This must be allowed to happen. Once it’s done this, you can use your additional switch to completely cut power to the heater.

All things considered, I’d rather have control over when the heater has power supply to it. If you’re worried about someone ‘accidentally’ turning the heater off by your additional power switch, mount the switch in an out-of-the-way place.

Other Tips I’ve Learned Along My Diesel Heater Journey

Install the fuel tank outside rather than inside the vehicle. It makes it easier to fill up and it’s not going to make the vehicle smell of diesel if you inadvertently spill diesel while filling.

Make sure the fuel pump is installed on the correct angle. Check your instruction booklet that comes with it. Although perhaps a bit hard to follow, the pump needs to be installed on about a 45 degree angle.

There’s a correct way to install the muffler on the exhaust too. Have a close look and you’ll see a small hole on one edge. This is to let any moisture drain out of it. It needs to be installed so that moisture can drip out this hole.

You can draw in air from outside the vehicle, or recirculate the air inside the vehicle. I’d recommend recirculating the inside air. That way you’re not ‘heating up’ cold outside air. It also prevents drawing in outside air which may smell of diesel exhaust.

Point the exhaust away from your vehicle. You don’t want the exhaust smell hanging around or exhaust fumes with carbon monoxide building up under your vehicle.

Note the angle of the fuel pump

Please note that none of the above is intended as a “how to guide”.

I’d recommend the Chinese diesel heater. For $250 NZD you can’t go wrong. Have a go at installing it yourself. Use common sense, talk to people who have installed them, there’s plenty of information on YouTube and Google, and join the Facebook groups.

So go ahead, get yourself one of these heaters and get out there over the winter months! Here’s a recommendation of one of my favorite places to stay – The Three Sisters, Tongaporutu!

How Many Solar Panels Do You Need?

I’ve often sat outside my van or motorhome, soaking up the sun, wondering how many solar panels do you need on the roof. The panels I have seem to work great, but I wonder if there is an optimal amount of solar panels to put on your RV, motorhome or van. I decided to do a bit of digging on the internet to answer the question of how many solar panels do you need on your roof.

Benefits of Solar Panels

Having solar panels on your motorhome, van or RV is a game changer. Instead of relying on the vehicles alternator to charge your house battery, you get free energy from the sun. There’s no need to be driving, using expensive petrol or diesel for your batteries to charge. You can park up by the lake, river, beach or the middle of nowhere, and as long as you have daylight your batteries will charge.

Generally speaking, solar power is easier and safer to install than AC mains supply. You can get your solar system professionally installed or you can do it yourself. An AC mains supply where you hook up to camp ground power should be done by a professional and must be signed off by a professional before it is legal.

There’s no moving parts or mechanics to maintain with solar panels. Compared to a generator or wind turbine solar panels are efficient, virtually maintenance free, and silent. So, how many solar panels do you need?

How many solar panels do you need on the roof?

How Many Solar Panels Do You Need? Two Schools of Thought

There are at least two schools of thought on the question of how many solar panels do you need to have. Some people will give you a definitive answer, and others will say it depends.

There are formulas you can use to work out how much power each appliance you intend to use consumes, and from there you work out how many hours a day you’ll use them, which gives you an estimate of your daily power usage and therefore how much output you need from your solar panels. You can even find nifty calculators online that you can input the numbers and it will provide an answer.

The other school of thought is that you can never have enough solar panels, or at least – the more the better and get what you can afford.

I’d pick a mix of these two, I’m probably in the middle although leaning towards the, “you can never have too much solar”.

You can input numbers and come up with a figure on paper, but do you really know every appliance you intend to use and for how long each day? What if you only want to charge a laptop computer initially, but later on find you need to run two laptops plugged into good sized monitors all day? Possibly a bit far fetched but not unheard of.

Solar is very dependent on the weather and season. What if you get two or three weeks of bad weather that limits your daily charging? When working out your numbers by the first method all this needs to be factored in. In winter there are less daylight hours and the sun is lower which equates to less charging.

I have 1100 watts of solar panels on my motorhome which is approximately two thirds of the roof space covered. As one person put it, no one ever regretted having too much solar but many have regretted having large battery capacity and not enough solar. In reality, numbers on paper can be very different to motorhoming in real life.

My van has one 270 watt panel. Given I don’t use as much electricity in the van my 270watt panel is adequate. Click here to read about my solar and electrical set up in my motorhome and van.

The Different Types of Solar Panels

There are three main types of solar panels that you’ll hear about. Monocrystalline, polycrystalline and thin-film solar panels.

Monocrystalline panels are the oldest type of panel and also the most developed technologically. They’re made from a single (mono) crystal silicon solar cells. They’re considered to be a premium panel with a high efficiency and output. They’re recognizable by their black, uniform appearance.

Polycrystalline panels are less efficient although often more affordable. The polycrystalline cells are also made from silicon but in contrast to the monocrystalline panels, these are made from many (poly) fragments of silicon crystal melted together. These panels appear bluish in colour and speckled as the light reflects of the many crystal fragments.

Thin-film solar panels are thin and flexible. They’re made from layers of semiconducting materials such as silicon, copper indium gallium selenide and cadium telluride. These panels tend to have a lower efficiency compared to crystalline panels.

Best Type of Solar Panel

You’ll likely be choosing between monocrystalline and polycrystalline panels. The best type will depend on your circumstances. How much roof space do you have and what can you afford? Polycrystalline panels are somewhat cheaper but less efficient, you might need more of them, whereas if your roof space is limited you might choose to pay a bit more for monocrystalline panels which will be more efficient but less of them needed. How many solar panels do you need for your installation? It’ll likely be dependent on the type of panel you install.

Fixed Solar Panels or Portable?

During my travels I’ve seen motorhomers with portable solar panels. This can be an option to supplement your panels on the roof or an option if for some reason you don’t want to mount panels to your roof. Keep in mind however, that a portable panel is probably not going to provide enough energy output for a normal to moderate user of power. It may be fine if you just want to charge a phone, laptop, run your lights at night and a few other small items, but you’d need to watch your usage.

A portable panel would be ideal to supplement your existing panels on the roof. Panels flat on your roof don’t put out as much power as a panel aimed directly at the sun. In winter, being able to point your panel at the sun can make a huge difference to the panels output. Therefore in winter time a portable panel would be ideal to supplement what you have on the roof.

In the summer time you may want to park your vehicle in the shade during the hottest parts of the day. Having a portable panel with a long lead means you can still get charging for your batteries if you can place the panel in the sun while your vehicle is in the shade.

How Many Solar Panels Do You Need for Cloudy Days?

Your solar panel will work on most cloudy days. A very cloudy day with really thick dark clouds may mean that it won’t work at all though. But on most cloudy days you’ll be able to get solar output although it will be a lot less than on a sunny day. This is the reason you want to have as many solar panels as you can. So how many solar panels do you need to get you through cloudy weather? On a cloudy day one solar panel might put out 1amp. If you have two you now get 2 amps. Four panels equals 4 amps. There are other factors at play, but in short this is the principle idea behind having plenty of solar. On those cloudy days you’ll have enough to get by.

Solar Panel Maintenance

To get the most from your solar panels you should ensure they’re clean. Even a small amount of debris, dead leaves or dirt on your panel can reduce it’s output dramatically. A mild detergent in water is safe to use on your panels. During cleaning you can also inspect any connections that you can see to ensure they’re secure and free from damage.

What Components Do You Need for a Solar Power Set Up?

Your solar panels are connected by cable to a solar charge controller. This in turn is connected to your battery. Your battery gives you power, either as 12 volt, 24 volt or even 48 volt depending on your system. Most motorhome, van or RV set ups will be 12 volt. You may also have an inverter which can provide you with mains power.

The charge controller is an important part of your solar power system. There are two types of controller. PWM and MPPT. For more about solar charge controllers read our thoughts here.

Your battery is connected to the charge controller. There are many types of battery available including lead acid, GEL, AGM, Carbon, and Lithium. Check out our guide about batteries for your motorhome, van or RV here.

Check out our tips for van life traveling here.